The exhibition was quite extraordinary, containing as it did illuminated books some of which were over 1300 (I think) years old. In the foyer before the exhibition proper, there was an explanation of how it was done for a newbie like me. Chris was in his element and very excited as he is a talented calligrapher himself and has his own web site devoted to the subject. The books ranged in size from pocket size to those where a small trolley might have been quite handy. Apart from their beauty - the richness of the colours, the detail of the text and the sparkle of leaf gold - there was the history of these items. The psalter of King Henry VIII, the edges of the pages grubbed by his fingers and the same, though smaller in size, of that of Queen Elizabeth I. Here are documents which physically connect us with world famous figures from our nation's history (and our ink-smudged school exercise books) who handled them over 400 years ago. Amazing. A shame we couldn't get to smell them too but they were out of nose reach in carefully lit glass prisons.
Other documents I loved too for their quirkiness were some maps. They were nothing like maps today but almost like printed sat-nav directions (if I may say that) in that they were very long but only a few inches wide and only showed your starting point (perhaps London) and then, via a succession of illustrated towns and landmarks, your destination, say Padua. They did not show what was around London or Padua or your route, only what you would need to find to continue to the next stage of your journey. They made me smile.
We had planned to complete our exhibition visit with tea and cake but suddenly a voice over loudspeakers announced "Ladies and gentlemen - the exhibition will be closing in 15 minutes.". Which meant that the cafe had either closed or was about to and we realised that apart from a 5 minute rest we had been on our feet for four and a half hours in this set of linked, darkened subterranean rooms and not noticed the time. Obviously, we had enjoyed it.
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As a complete contrast, we arrived in Devon on the 22nd of the month to spend five days camping but we exchanged darkened underground rooms in our capital city for the wildness, open air and brilliant sunlit illumination of the Dartmoor National Park at the start of what proved to be the warmest March weather for years. (Not a patch on the scary weather in the USA though I have to say!)
It was our first 'proper' holiday together since we met, so to be camping in such a stunning landscape was a real thrill for both of us. Here's a smiling Chris bringing tent-brewed morning tea on our first morning there and yes, that is an electric kettle ... but we did have a portable gas stove too.
Over our five days we walked across the moors to stone circles, visited Castle Drogo (joining the National Trust in the process), attended a commitment ceremony for friends at Haldon Belvedere (quite a place as you can see below):
We also consumed great beer and food (including the best mashed potato in my life and wicked home-made chilli chip sauce!) in the amazing Drewe Arms where the previous landlady Mabel Mudge had run it for 75 years when she retired aged 99!! We visited the chocolate box pretty village of Lustleigh to enjoy refreshment at the Primrose Tea Rooms. It is run by a mother and daughter and the mother loved my nice fountain pen, calligraphy and proper writing and so she and Chris had a good chat and she brought down a book for him on a stone carver with a fab garden who lived in Scotland. Such a lovely couple and a lovely place with gorgeous coffee and cakes into the bargain.
Not only all this, but somehow, despite never having gone near a sip or sniff of gin since I got horrendously drunk on Gordon's Gin with my best mate Ralph around the age of 15 or so (so utterly embarrassing when my Dad had to come and rescue me and put me to bed) I reacquainted myself with it. Chris wanted to get some Gin and we went into a great wine shop in lovely Chagford and the proprietor recommended The Botanist, which is, very improbably, from the Isle of Islay in Scotland! He also suggested that we skip tonic water from Schhh ... you know who, and get something appropriate to the quality of the gin, namely Fever Tree tonic. So, armed with these Chris mixed a gin and tonic back at the tent. Well, I was shocked. The gin itself had scents vaguely similar to gin I knew but the taste, aroma and even texture in my mouth were from another planet (or perhaps, just Scotland!). Stunning. We agreed that we could probably drink it neat! The tonic was wonderful - all natural and no Aspartame (which even if there's nothing in the bad press still tastes synthetic and disgusting) or other junk. The purity of the tonic matched the purity and scent of the gin. We were both amazed and I just kept going wow! wow! I couldn't, and still can't, believe that I've now seriously got into gin after a gap of 38 years since it last passed my lips... [As they say, I have no connection with either company but I like to mention something that's unusual, brilliant and enhances the sensual pleasures of life and if that is gin and tonic then so be it!]
Chris and I both love the outdoors and especially wild, rugged and unspoilt places and Dartmoor is a fine example. We had an exhilarating time and there's still so much more to explore and so many times of the year to visit. I'm looking forward to showing Chris the delights of the Highlands of Scotland. I can't wait!
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